Range map, courtesy of eBird.com. Purple shows location and concentration of populations of wild red-crowned kakarikis.
The red-crowned kakariki (Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae) is a medium-sized parrot native to New Zealand and surrounding islands. At maturity the males weigh approximately 70 grams and females 55. They measure 10.5-11.6 inches in length. The wild-type color is emerald green with violet-blue wings and red markings on the brow, behind the eyes, and on the flanks. Several color mutations exist. With proper care, kakariki can live 10-20 years. CAGE:
Cage should be at least 30"x18"x18" though larger (e.g. 36"-48" wide) is ideal as this species is incredibly athletic.
Bar spacing should be no larger than 5/8".
Powder-coated iron or stainless steel are the best cage materials.
Place the cage in a well-lit area away from drafts.
Line the solid bottom tray of the cage with scrap paper or newspaper to catch droppings and discarded food.
Clean the cage at least once a week by replacing the paper in the bottom tray, wiping down soiled cage bars, and washing the grating above the bottom tray. Perches and toys may need to be removed and cleaned occasionally.
To protect your floors it is best to place the cage away from carpet if possible; if not, place a rug or plastic mat beneath the cage to catch messes.
FOOD:
We feed our kakariki a mix of Kaytee Supreme Cockatiel seed mix, Higgens Sunburst Conure seed mix, Volkman Avian Super Science Parakeet seed mix, supplemented with a small amount of Roudybush Nibles pellets. Approximately 80% of the dry mix is seed and 20% is pellets.
We also keep spray millet on hand as a treat and training aid. This can be found online or in bird stores. When you first bring a new bird home, it is advisable to hang a couple pieces near perches so that they can find food easily.
Feed 4-5 tablespoons of dry food per day. Make sure seed and pellets are available in the cage at all times. If you find your bird is not consuming all the seed you can reduce the amount a bit to prevent waste.
Replace dry food and water daily. Clean bowls with soap and water.
In addition to seed and pellets we feed finely-chopped fruits and vegetables every day. A mix of roughly 75% vegetables and 25% fruits is ideal. Kakarikis are voracious eaters of fruits and vegetables, so we offer each bird 1/3 to 1/2 cup of chopped fresh foods per day.
Some safe fruits and vegetables:
kale
bok choy
spinach
turnip greens
arugula
collard greens
broccoli (raw or cooked)
sweet potato (cooked)
squash (cooked)
carrots (blanched or cooked)
corn
green peas
pepper (hot or sweet, seeds included)
lentils (sprouted or cooked)
blueberries
blackberries
raspberries
pomegranate
papaya (seeds included)
apple
kiwi
banana
mango
microgreens
sprouted legumes
These foods may be chopped, cooked, mixed and frozen to save time on food preparation.
Our daily mix for kakariki consists of kale, spinach, sweet potato, green peas, carrots, corn, broccoli, blueberries, pomegranate, oats, bell pepper and seeds, dried chile pepper and seeds, and sprouted seed and legumes. We cycle inclusion of apple, papaya, raspberries, blackberries, peach, pear, plum, kiwano, cucumber, squash, pumpkin, bok choy, collard greens, red cabbage, parsley, and oregano.
Cooked rice and quinoa are enjoyed by the birds on occasion.
Most foods that are safe for humans are safe for birds, with the exception of avocado, mushrooms, raw onions, chocolate, eggplant, uncooked legumes, or dairy. These are toxic to birds.
PERCHES & TOYS:
Provide bird with at least three or four different perches in the cage, of several different materials and diameters.
Ideal perch materials include natural branches, pumice stone, concrete, or chola wood.
Perch diameters should be approximately 1/2" to 1".
Kakarikis enjoy bird toys made of paper, cardboard, wood, grasses, foam, metal and plastic. Hang 4-5 in the cage to keep them entertained.
Perches and toys can be found online or in bird stores.
HANDLING:
To get a bird to "step up" onto your finger, hold your finger near or against the bird's chest. A gentle push may be necessary to get the bird to hop on. Some people couple this with a verbal command "step up" but I usually don't; I find the visual and tactile signal of the extended finger is enough for them to understand what their owner wants. Frequently, when the bird steps up without biting I tell them "good bird" and offer them a treat.
If the bird bites while already on your hand, jerking your hand downwards a bit sharply will throw the bird off balance and cause it to stop biting.
Kakarikis are very smart and can be taught many tricks. They can also be taught to speak by repeating short words or phrases to them daily. Start with easy words like "hello," "pretty bird" or "peekaboo."
Rewarding the bird for good behavior is the most effective training technique. Millet, sunflower seeds, or safflower seeds are good treats for training.
GROOMING:
Every 3-4 days, mist the bird with a plastic spray bottle to keep their feathers and skin healthy. They are usually more receptive to bathing if the spray if aimed above them and the water droplets fall onto them, as opposed to aiming spray bottle directly at bird.
Kakariki may enjoy taking a shower so long as there is constant supervision, the water is not too hot, and the bird is not directly in the water stream.
If a variety of perches are provided, nails should not overgrow, but if they do, consult your avian veterinarian for a trim.
We do not recommend clipping the wings of kakarikis as flying is important to their cardiovascular health and unlike some bird species, they are very skilled fliers and not likely to injure themselves by crashing into a wall or furniture.
SLEEP:
Allow bird to sleep 10-12 hours per day. If room is not sufficiently dark, the cage may be covered with a dark sheet or blanket.
A dim nightlight in the room is usually appreciated by the bird in the event they fall off their perch in the night.
HOUSEHOLD DANGERS:
Non-stick pans (those coated with PTFE or Teflon) emit fumes which are toxic to birds and can kill them very quickly. We recommend replacing non-stick pans with stainless steel, ceramic, copper, and/or cast iron.
Keep cords out of bird's reach or they may be chewed.
Do not use aerosol sprays, bleach, candles, or air fresheners around the bird. For cleaning the cage the safest options are dish soap and/or vinegar.
Other toxic household items: aluminum cooking bags, most essential oils, self-cleaning oven feature, epoxy glue, cigarettes, fresh paint, furniture polish, plug-in air fresheners, tea tree oil
Some household plants are poisonous. An incomplete list includes amaryllis, daffodil, holly, ivy, lilies, mistletoe, philodendron, poinsettia, elephant's ear, tomato stem/leaves, and shamrock
Do not bring the bird outdoors without being in a cage or carrier. Even if wings are clipped, the bird can get blown away and injured, or snatched by a predator.
Turn off ceiling fans in the room when your bird is out of its cage.
Avoid having windows with no screens open when your bird is out of its cage.
If you have cats or dogs, don't let your bird out when they are out. It is best to limit their contact entirely.
The saliva of humans, cats and dogs is dangerous to birds. Do not let a bird come into contact with cats and dogs, and don't let your bird eat or drink after you.
ILLNESS:
Signs of illness include lethargy, puffed up feathers, lack of appetite, unusual dropping color or consistency, weakness, visibly heavy breathing, sleeping more often, vocalizing less often, nasal discharge, or eye discharge
If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your avian vet immediately as birds can die of untreated illness very quickly and suddenly.
It is recommended that you take your new bird to a vet for a health check in the first two weeks after acquisition, then after that once yearly for an exam and bloodwork.
By remaining vigilant about symptoms of illness, eliminating the household dangers listed above, and feeding a high-quality diet, you are taking steps to ensure your bird lives a long life.